Brewing in Bergen: How to brew All-grain without a separate mash-tun, and without using BIAB

I've been brewing All-grain for about a year now. I'm somewhat limited as regards to equipment, as I don't have the luxury of a 3-tier system.

As far as kettles go, I use my two largest ones - A 36 L (9.5 gal.) kettle, and a 16 L (4.2 gal.) kettle.
I've done BIAB, but I feel that the efficiency is a bit low for me, and it's also quite messy (and heavy) when I lift up the bag at the end of the mash.

In this little tutorial, I'll be brewing an American IPA and showing you how I do it.
The beer will be a clone of Kinn's Vestkyst IPA (Westcoast IPA), a masterpiece of a Norwegian beer.

As a European, I know how frustrating it can be to only have recipes in Imperial measurements.
Not that converting them is a problem, but...it is a hassle.
Therefore, I give you both Metric AND Imperial. It's a win/win. (gallons are U.S. gallons).

The recipe is originally for 25 L (6.6 gal.), but I'm brewing 23 L (6.1 gal.) due to batch sparging and lower efficiency.

Recipe

7750 grams / 17.1 lbs Maris Otter Pale Malt
350 grams / 12.35 oz. Crystal Malt 80L
350 grams / 12.35 oz. Crystal Malt 40L

15 grams / 0.5 oz. Simcoe 30 min
15 grams / 0.5 oz. Centennial 30 min
15 grams / 0.5 oz. Columbus 30 min

15 grams / 0.5 oz. Simcoe 15 min
15 grams / 0.5 oz. Centennial 15 min
15 grams / 0.5 oz. Columbus 15 min

15 grams / 0.5 oz. Simcoe 0 min
15 grams / 0.5 oz. Centennial 0 min
15 grams / 0.5 oz. Columbus 0 min

20 grams / 0.7 oz. Amarillo Dry hop for 10 days (secondary)

Yeast: White Labs WLP007 (recipe calls for WLP013 London ale, but I already had WLP007, so I'm using that)

Mash: 64 C / 147 F for 60 minutes

Boil: 90 minutes

Fermentation: 19 C / 66 F for 4 days in primary, then 19 C / 66 F for 10 days in secondary.

I start by installing my bazooka-filter in the kettle.

Then I add 22 L / 5.8 gal. of cold water and start heating it up.
With my setup, I heat the water to 70 C / 158 F to reach the correct mash temperature.
I hit 70.2 C / 158.3 F. Think that's close enough.

This next step will depend on the water profile in your area.
I will add 9 grams / 0.3 oz of CaSO4 to lower the pH of the water.

When my water has reached the right temperature, I turn off the heat and let it sit for a couple of minutes to equalize the temperature.
I measure the temperature again, to see that it is correct.
I then add my grains and stir them in.

After this, I add some more chemicals to the mash.
For this beer, I'll add 3 grams / 0.1 oz. of CaSO3 and 3 grams / 0.1 oz. of NaHCO3 and stir.

I let it sit for a while before i take a temperature-reading.
Temperature is almost spot on! 64.3 C / 147.7 F (Yay, science!).
Now the mash will sit for 60 minutes.

Meanwhile, I take my other kettle and fill it up with 15,5 L / 4.1 gal. of water (for sparging later) and start heating it up to 78 C / 172 F.
I also add 6 grams / 0.2 oz. of CaSO4. I'm not adding CaSO3 or NaHCO3 to this water, as I don't want to raise the pH.
Also....Have a homebrew. This step is mandatory!

The mash is done, and I'll now transfer the first runnings into my fermentation bucket for temporary storage.
First, I start with the vorlauf. I'll collect some wort until it runs clear and free of husks and other stuff and recirculate this carefully over the grains again.
When running clear, I let it drain into my fermentation bucket.

When all the wort is out, I add half of the sparging water from the other kettle. This water is now holding 78 C / 172 F.
I stir carefully, put the lid back on and wait for 10 minutes.

I repeat the process from earlier. Vorlauf, and drain.
And I do this again with the last of the sparge water.

The wort collected should now be approximately 29 L / 7.6 gal.